About Greenland, everyone knows only where it is. No one was there, there is no news from there. There is one TV channel working there, and that couple of hours a day.
Eighty percent of the island's territory is covered by a huge internal glacier. Life is possible in places around the perimeter.
Since the XVIII century, Greenland & mdash; part of the Kingdom of Denmark. What does not prevent it from having its own parliament (since 1979) and the flag (since 1985). The flag of Greenland acquired immediately as it left the European Community. And she came out of the community because she was not satisfied with quotas for catching fish. And they did not arrange her quotas, because Greenland lives with halibut and shrimp.
The plane from Copenhagen lands at the airport Dlinnofjordovo. This & mdash; the former US military base. There is an excellent runway on which the Airbus 330 seats. From here already on small planes get to other cities. The roads in Greenland are only between the houses, between the cities there are none.
A hundred kilometers from here is the Volkswagen test site, which was built to test new cars on the glacier at any time of the year. Although the polygon is considered unprofitable and is going to be closed this year, the road has already been laid, so it is possible to reach the glacier by truck. From other cities to the glacier get on helicopters.
By the way, since the polygon is semi-secret, and the road is private, the path is closed with a lock with a lock, but the locals have a key to carry it to the glacier.
On the way they make a stop to enjoy the remains of a broken American training aircraft. The guys got up in the air, but the weather deteriorated. They circled for a long time in the sky, waiting for a lumen. Four of them flew to the base and sat down, and the three courageously ejected. It was in the mid-sixties, but the debris is still lying right on the road. All the interesting devices have already been picked out for me.
In the glacier the ice shines in places.
And in places & mdash; gleams.
Practically all cars in Greenland & mdash; Toyota. But there are unexpected exceptions.
Greenland car number.
The Lisianors (Sisimiut)
In the town of Lisenorz about five thousand inhabitants.
And about the same number of nonliving units.
In Lisenorets, the author of these notes for the first time in my life managed to ride a snowmobile. It was a good aperitif before traveling on the dogs scheduled for the next day.
What do we know about riding in a dog sled? That harnessed harness. More is not known.
In the morning Inuit (aka Eskimo), who knows exactly two words in English (OK and coffee), harnesses the dog into a sleigh. The passenger sits down and sits back, catches a buzz.
The subtleties of control of the harness are manifested during driving on the plain, when climbing uphill and when descending from it.
Driving straight and uphill is relatively simple. It is necessary to watch, that the dog has not got under yours or counter sleds. From time to time you need to shout out "Yuk!" Yuk! & Raquo; and lash the five-meter long whip of those hackers who suddenly forgot about teamwork. At the same time every five minutes, let the reader forgive me such details, one of the dogs decides to shit. Time for her exactly so much, for how much the entire team passes the length of the reason, that is, seconds two or three. Relief is given to the poor woman with a superhuman effort. Inuit in this photo carefully corrects the reason that he did not go under the baton. It is worth the little dog still a little overstay, as she gets a whip in the ass and hurrying to catch up with colleagues.
This horse does not change its place in the harness. A bundle of reins every twenty minutes of driving must be unraveled. Dogs at this time lie on the snow, cool and breathe in chorus.
Two hours later your obedient servant was brought to a place of incredible beauty, from where a magnificent view to all sides was opened. By the way, the outer radiant rim around the Sun & mdash; not a photoeffect, it was also visible in glasses, and without them. It's a halo. Looks like an eye.
The most buzz & mdash; go down. But the sledge is not passed on to the dogs, the first thick rope is put on the skid, the second with the chain is attached from behind, and the Inuit is still standing on it, which brakes with all its strength. We make a halt. He says: & laquo; Coffee? & Raquo; I teach him a new word: & laquo; Snickers? & Raquo; Having treated each other, we return to the Lisenorians.
It should be noted that all homes in Greenland are painted from four cans of paint.
On this day, the Foxenors had a great event & mdash; in the gym was a fair. For some reason, everyone bought paper towels in packages of 21 pieces.
National Clothes Museum & mdash; a house consisting of one room. No one is guarding & mdash; You open the door and go in. Exhibits of the end of XIX & mdash; beginning of the XXI century.
Next stop & mdash; the city of Icebergs at the mouth of Disko Bay. There are about 5,000 residents.
And roads are at home.
And a pedestrian crossing.
There is a very productive glacier around the corner of Jakobshavn, which produces twenty million tons of ice per day. All this ice floats in the form of icebergs in the bay, representing a magnificent sight. But people here live since 1741, and attracted them not the original view from the window, but the fishiness of the place.
Walking around the city, I looked at the port in the evening. And the eskimo drunk into the dopel comes out to meet me. I'm showing it to him with gestures, they say, let's take off, since you're so handsome. He tells me, you, dear man, do not hurry. He takes out the hairbrush, tucks his hair, puts it on his head, takes out a knife from behind his bosom, and poses. Then he draws attention to the fact that he has a knife in his hand.
Also goes on me. He clings to the jacket, grabs the camera strap and is going to cut it. Well, I hold his hand, where the knife, I hold, and around & mdash; nobody. And he is low, strong and drunk. And the Inuit says something unintelligible. And the knife is no longer in the camera, but in me he croaks. Somehow I pushed him away, and he followed me. I'm leaving, but he is catching up. I ran, he, too. And the more distance, the less I want him to catch up with me at a speed. He held his three hundred meters, but I was sober.
I went to the hotel and asked where the police were. And at the other end of the city, they say, it will open at nine in the evening. Well, I wait until nine, I take a taxi to the police (the whole city is as large as a distance between two metro stations, but there is a taxi). There are such a guy with a girl. I'm talking & mdash; So, so and so, the city you have a nice, but to me even in Murmansk in the port with a knife did not fit, although there, too, the Arctic. And in Kolomna drunks are peaceful. I turn on the camera and show the portrait. A guy like that looks and says: & laquo; Ah, well, that's our Porfiry Semyonitch, we know him & raquo ;. The girl promises to start a business. Well, I say, I'll go, will you order a taxi? We order what is not. I'm his & mdash; but can I take a picture of you? Yes, shoot what's there.
Then I realized that according to the scenario after that the policeman had to get a gun and instruct me, but nothing happened.
What Porfiry Semyonovich wanted from me I did not find out. And the next day there were icebergs.